How Does The Passive Layer Work
The passive layer is created as the chromium content in the stainless steels surface reacts to oxygen. The passive layer acts as a protective barrier, preventing further oxidation of the stainless steel. In comparison, ordinary carbon steel surfaces form ferric oxide when exposed to oxygen. Ferric oxide does not form a continuous layer, so it eventually spalls off, leaving raw steel exposed and prone to a destructive rusting cycle.
The passive layer of stainless steel is self-repairing. If it is damaged, chromium in the exposed stainless steel will react with oxygen to form new chromium oxide. As long as there is sufficient chromium present, the chromium oxide layer will continue to reform and protect the stainless steel surface.
Quick And Easy Cold Bluing And Black Oxide Kits
Cold bluing uses acids to put an oxidized finish on steel at room temperatures, or close to it. Theyre very easy to apply, requiring only a thorough degreasing before application. For fun I compared the finish from two Brownells cold bluing products:
Dicropan T-4 and Oxpho-Blue Creme Cold Bluing Test
Both the Dicropan T-4 and the Oxpho-Blue Creme came as creams, which made them easier to apply. To perform the test, I took the spacers I had made for my new 6-jaw chuck backplate and compared the results. I simply cleaned them in some mineral spirits and then applied the compounds with a folded paper towel.
Do this wearing gloves as the chemicals are fairly nasty. The steel turns blue quickly, after which you rinse it in cold water to remove and neutralize the chemicals. I then oiled the parts with Break Free, which is also an excellent anti-corrosive. The oil helps bring out the blue a bit more.
My conclusion was that the Dicropan looked darker, almost black, and seemed to go on more evenly. On the other hand, the Oxpho-Blue showed more blues and was a prettier finish despite it being less even. If you want to try Dicropan, its just .
Rear three: Oxpho-Blue. Front spacer: Dicropan T-4.
Protect Stainless Steel From Rust Using Proven Cleaning Methods And Passivating Treatments
Stainless steels are highly corrosion resistanthowever, stainless steel applications can still remain at risk to surface damage. Oxidation, corrosion, rusting, or staining can occur over the long-term in harsh environments without routine cleaning and maintenance. Repeat mechanical damage also contributes to a faster degradation of the metal.
All stainless steels contain at least 10.5% chromium by weight. It is this chromium content that creates a shield called the passive layer, which protects stainless steel from corrosionunlike other steels. The higher the chromium content, the greater the corrosion resistance. occurs when the passive layer is damaged and there is not enough chromium for it to reform.
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Acidic Vs Alkaline Drain Cleaners
Acidic drain cleaners typically contain high concentrations of sulfuric acid, and they use acid hydrolysis to dissolve hair, soap scum, and any other obstacles in the drain. Overall, acidic drain cleaners are more powerful and able to clean more difficult clogs.
Alkaline drain cleaners, on the other hand, typically use lye as the main ingredient. The main benefit is that theyre not as corrosive as acidic drain openers. While they may not be quite as strong, they still do a very good job dissolving obstacles and clearing drains.
Old Metal Finishing/protection Techniques

RVTECH said:Unless you are already aware of it there is oil blackening. I have used this many times, up to recently on the front sight of a muzzleloading rifle. When done correctly it produces a very nice finish on small parts.
RVTECH said:I have never used this method with parts where I am concerned about heat being an issue but I have not used a torch when doing so either. What I have done is to set the parts on the coil of my stove and let them heat until dull red then pick them up and drop into the oil I doubt the stove coils would heat anything hot enough to affect heat treating but as an experiment I will heat a small metal part and shoot it with a laser thermometer to see how hot it gets.
RVTECH said:Unless you are already aware of it there is oil blackening. I have used this many times, up to recently on the front sight of a muzzleloading rifle. When done correctly it produces a very nice finish on small parts.
just as easily
bolus said:It showed up today so at least I know of one thing that can get shipped to me. Thanks again.I etched some scrap metal in vinegar last night and left it out with the plan to do the rusting tonight as practice. Already completely rusted. Slow rusting in Hawaii is actually pretty fast. no wonder mold grows on cast iron in my kitchen. So glad I’ll be able to blue a bunch of my tools to keep them from getting ruined.
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Specific Stainless Steel Cleaning
When stainless steel has become extremely dirty with signs of surface discoloration or corrosion, routine cleaning may no longer suffice. Cleaning methods designed to tackle specific types of damage are listed below.
Fingerprints
- Clean with soap or detergent and warm water.
- Commercially-available solutions or hydrocarbon solvents can also be used.
Oil and grease marks
- Use isopropyl alcohol, acetone, or methylated spirit.
- Apply solvent several times with a clean, non-scratching cloth until all marks are removed.
Burnt-on stains
- Soak in hot water and diluted ammonia or detergent.
- Remove grime with a nylon brush.
- If needed, use a fine abrasive powder but be careful not to scratch polished surfaces.
- Rinse thoroughly with clean water.
Discoloration, coffee and tea stains
Discoloration
- Apply with a soft cloth or sponge
- Rinse thoroughly with clean water.
Coffee stains
- Soak in sodium bicarbonate solution .
Tea stains
- Soak in sodium carbonate solution .
If the object is too large to soak, use a sponge or a soft cloth.
Localized rust stains
- Use a soft cloth to apply an oxalic acid solution.
- Leave the solution on the surface for a few minutes to dissolve contaminating particles.
- Rinse away all residual solution with clean water.
Limescale, cement and mortar splashes
Limescale
- Dilute one part vinegar in three parts water and apply with a nylon brush.
Cement and mortar splashes
Graffiti
Heat stains
Structural damage
Corrosion
Moderate corrosion
Severe corrosion
More About Drain Repair
Drain repair can be a really challenging task as it might require equipment and machinery to do the task. Clogged up plumbing can trigger so much inconvenience and must be handled as soon as possible.
Work on the damage or clog ought to also be done efficiently and fast. Be it the sewer or any drains, services for repairs and unclogging are now being offered by lots of companies.
Nevertheless, it is important that the contractor you select can do quality work. For clogged up pipes and drains, understand the importance of having a trusted company to do the work for you.
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Cold Rust Bluing Methods
Closely related historical posts, oldest first …
Q. I’M BRIAN AND I AM STARTING A SMALL BUSINESS SPECIALIZING IN THE REFINISHING OF ANTIQUE AND CLASSIC FIREARMS MOST OF WHICH WERE FINISHED USING A COLD RUST BLUING PROCESS.
THE ACID BASED SOLUTION WAS APPLIED TO THE SURFACE ALLOWED TO RUST UNTIL RED IMMERSED IN BOILING WATER THEN WIRE BRUSHED TO PRODUCE A BLUE BLACK FINNISH. THIS FINNISH IS VERY DURABLE AND CAN NOT BE DUPLICATED BY COMMERCIAL COLD INSTANT BLUE PRODUCTS CURRENTLY AVAILABLE IN GUN SHOPS.
DOES ANYONE KNOW FORMULAS FOR THESE EARLY RUST BLUING SOLUTIONS AS WELL AS INFO ON HOW TO USE THEM
After 24 hours in a warm moist atmosphere, boil to fix the coat of rust that has appeared when cool card off the black loose oxide that will then be visible. I use a very fine wire wheel made by company called Canning from Birmingham, England. This brushing is essential to the final high polished finish required for guns such as the Purdey’s Holland and Hollands, etc. which I regularly work on. You may have to use small steel bristle brushes to reach into awkward areas also fine 0000 steel wool .
—-Ed. note! Readers: These instructions are for experienced smiths or chemists already very familiar with the hazards of strong acids!The internet is a giant one-room schoolhouse where you are overhearing & reading instructions appropriate only for people at a reasonably advanced chemistry level & with haz-mat training, working in a proper industrial facility 🙂
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Our specialists can do any kind of drain repair. Be it a residential or commercial drain, our team can manage it. We are your trusted regional option for any kind of drain trouble. We also do basement waterproofing and underpinning.
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How Do I Apply Van’s Instant Gun Blue
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Opinions vary as much as the project that is being blued! Most people agree that when possible and practical, dipping the metal provides the easiest and most consistent finish. Other methods include application with small pieces of cotton cloth , a new toothbrush or paint brush, degreased #0000 steel wool, airless sprayers, and even garden sprayers. How Van’s Instant Gun Blue is applied has a lot to do with the visual effect the user is trying to attain. Be creative!
Home Hot Bluing Jobthat Works Great With Factory Results
RamRoddoc said:It works great. Do not plug the barrel. The blue is actually a rusting process and does not affect the bore in a negative way. Actually barrels that were blued seemed to seal better than non-blued steel barrels . No Aluminum as it off-gases and you can be harmed. The lye when you mix it in water will get real warm, stir in small amounts and allow it to go into a salt solution. Use a regular steel rod to stir in the fertilizer and when it mixes it will start to blue the rod . Use an enamel pot or steel made for bluing. I used a stainless steel the first time and it imparted a plum color and can impart a rainbow hue. The Colt I did turned out good and I really like the slight plum color. It gives it an antique color to me. The springer came out better than the factory bluing originally on the gun.Lye=Drain cleaner, try not to get it on you or it will burn your skin. Wear rubber gloves and face shield just in case. The bore will often vent mist/vapor and can hurt you if you have your noggin right up near it as you dip it in hot water. The gun will be over 212 degrees F and when it hits even boiling water it will vent and bubble. In a tube/bore it can be an issue.The salts can be used over again until they fail to blue. So far a Colt Woodsman and a Springer 1911 have been done and have a T/C pistol waiting to be blued.More links if you are looking:
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Rust Bluing For The Home Hobbyist
- Hot caustic salt bluing
- Goggles, face shield, or other eye protection
- Large, but ideally shallow, pot. Unless you want to be sleeping on the couch, don’t use the pots in the house. Go hit the thrift store and pick one up. I got mine for 4 bucks
- Fine wire brass or steel brush. I prefer brass as it won’t mar, since brass is softer than steel
- Goggles, face shield, or other eye protection
- 1 gallon of *DISTILLED* water. This must be distilled water or your reaction is going to be ugly and you will not like the results.Other types of water are going to have minerals and other impurities in them.
- More lint free cloth
- You will be working with an oxidizer, but you don’t need to wear a respirator. That said, during the boiling process, avoid inhaling the steam as it’s probably not good for you.
- Pre-existing coatings
- Oils/grease, including the oils on your hands
This axe head has a lacquer on it that will prevent bluing |
The part after cleaning. Note the lack of a shine |
Your caustic soda supplies. Not pictured: Gloves & eye protection |
BE ADVISED
I ultimately cut the top part of the cup off so I could get in there better |
Get in here Billy, granddad’s making cookies! |
- The part still has some kind of coating on it that needs to be removed
- The part is aluminum or another non-steel material. You can’t blue aluminum! You can anodize it, Duracoat it, Cerekote it, but you can’t blue it.
The process begins. Don’t freak when your parts look like this initially |
*eight*
Hot Caustic Salt Blue

The bluing process has changed a lot over the years both in the preferred methods and the chemicals used. For many years it was often difficult to have a gun blued and have it match the exact shade it may have been before and nearly impossible to bring a firearm to a gunsmith and have the blue match what may have been done by someone else. The reason for that is that there were numerous home recipes to make bluing salts and everything from commercially manufactured ingredients to things like drain cleaner were used. Some of these recipes can still be found on the internet although what results someone may obtain is questionable at best. Today we can obtain commercially manufactured bluing salts which easily repeat the same look every time. This becomes important when only a few parts may need refinishing. The good news is that almost all modern firearms have been blued with black oxide salts to your favorite deer rifle or handgun can be more easily matched.
There are several finishes available from matte blue which is very popular on many hunting rifles as it better holds oil to protect the metal and does not reflect light which can scare game to high gloss which is almost like a mirror finish which is more common on high grade long and handguns with several options in between. Matte finish is a great way to make an old firearm with poor metal condition look great with the least amount of expense.
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Buying Guide For Best Drain Cleaners
A clogged drain can be one of the most persistently frustrating things to deal with in your home. Whether it happens in your sinks, shower, or toilet, it can be a huge inconvenience for everyone in your house. Fortunately, you dont need to call a plumber every time a clog occurs.
High-quality drain cleaners make it easy to quickly eliminate clogs in showers, bathtubs, and toilets. They are proven to dissolve hair, sludge, and other debris on contact to deliver fast, effective results. Plus, drain cleaners often are odourless, ensuring you won’t have to worry about them leaving behind pungent odours that circulate throughout your home.
Drain cleaners generally include easy-to-follow instructions, and drain cleaner application usually takes just a few seconds. They also include high-density formulas that consist of nonflammable and biodegradable ingredients, and they won’t damage your home’s pipes. Some drain cleaners are sold with a money-back guarantee.
To learn more about which drain cleaner best suits your needs, keep reading our buying guide, which has tips and recommendations to help you choose the right one.
Routine Stainless Steel Cleaning
Stainless steel must be cleaned regularly to preserve the metals integrity and maintain a pristine appearance. With proper care, and by selecting an appropriate grade, stainless steel can be saved from corrosion. When stainless steel maintenance is neglected, corrosive substances can accumulate on vulnerable surfaces.
Routine cleaning steps
Stainless steel care and maintenance may require the use of harmful chemicals. Follow all safety instructions provided with cleaning or polishing agents. Ensure personal protective equipment is worn in accordance with occupational health and safety guidelines.
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Salvaging A Remington Model 11 Part : Last Time Coffield Draw
Citations:
- MLA style: “Salvaging a Remington Model 11 part 6: last time , Coffield draw-filed the metal to clear off pitting and finished the stock. This time, he uses factory-style hot bluing to finish the metal..” The Free Library. 2013 InterMedia Outdoors, Inc. 25 Dec. 2022
- Chicago style:The Free Library. S.v. Salvaging a Remington Model 11 part 6: last time , Coffield draw-filed the metal to clear off pitting and finished the stock. This time, he uses factory-style hot bluing to finish the metal..” Retrieved Dec 25 2022 from
- APA style: Salvaging a Remington Model 11 part 6: last time , Coffield draw-filed the metal to clear off pitting and finished the stock. This time, he uses factory-style hot bluing to finish the metal.. > The Free Library. . Retrieved Dec 25 2022 from