Unscrew And Disconnect The Drain Flange
Using your pliers, unscrew and disconnect the drain flange or drain body. The drain flange is the visible part of the drainusually running around the edge. Some drains have a grid section covering the hole .
There is often a rubber gasket around the drain. Remove this piece and keep it handy once you reassemble the sink. You may want to inspect the gasket to ensure it’s in good condition otherwise, you may need to replace the gasket as well.
Connect The Waste Pipe
A continuous waste pipe is the piece that connects both sides of your sink drain together. Start by taking a measurement for the flanged tailpiece by holding the waste pipe up to the two drain ends. If you have already installed a garbage disposal, measure between the sink strainer and drain outlet. Install your newly sized and cut vertical flanged tailpiece onto the sink strainer, securing with a slip nut. Slide the waste pipe into the drains side outlet, then slide the entire assembly onto the drainpipe and sink tailpiece. Secure all slip nuts with pliers.
Install The Garbage Disposal And Strainer
First, install the garbage disposal onto the desired side of the sink, since this takes up the most space.
Next, install a basket strainer onto the remaining sink basin. This is also a good time to install any other under-sink components, such as a water filter or a hot water dispenser. You will need to work around these fittings as you connect the drain pipes.
The Spruce / Kevin Norris
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Install The Sink Drain Pipe System
The sink pipe system has four pipes, accordingly: the tailpiece, the waist arm, the p-trap , and the drainpipe to the wall cleanout. If you’re installing a double bowl sink, then a t-trap will be needed to join the tailpieces from the two bowls, per Keeney. To set this up, start by placing the washer through the tailpiece and push it up into your basket strainer. Secure this connection with a slip joint nut.
The next step is to connect your waist arm. Most times you will have to pre-cut this to fit into your pipe system, as noted by The Spruce. Before you throw out your old pipes, you can use the old waist arm as a guide to measuring the required length of your new waist arm. If the new waist arm is longer, use a PVC pipe cutter to cut off the extra length. Connect the waste arm to the tailpiece with a washer and slip joint nut and do the same for the p-trap to the drainpipe leading to the wall cleanout. Always remember that the p-trap must be connected to the last drain pipe .
When you’re done, ensure all nuts are tightly screwed on with the sink wrench and allow water to drain through the pipes for one minute. If there is no leakage, then your newly installed sink drain is good to go!
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What Is A Sink Flange
A sink flange connects the sink drain to a section of pipe called a tailpiece to create a tight seal. It is made of metal and sits around the edge of the drain rather like a collar, and it usually has a grid-like section covering the drain that looks like a strainer. The sink drain flange prevents water from leaking out of the plughole when you run the faucet. If it becomes damaged or loose, water can leak into the area under the sink.
Install The Sink Basket
- Needle-nose pliers
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Install The Drain Tailpiece And Continuous Waste Pipe
The drain tailpiece is a short vertical length of straight pipe that joins the sink strainer to a tee fitting. The side outlet on the tee fitting will accept the continuous waste pipe coming from the garbage disposal , while the bottom outlet will continue on to the drain trap.
Temporarily install the tailpiece onto the sink strainer, using a slip nut . Temporarily connect the curved end of the continuous waste pipe to the garbage disposal’s drain outlet, using a slip nut and washer. Let the straight end of the pipe extend past the vertical tailpiece on the sink basin. The pipe should slope downward slightly toward the tailpiece.
Hold the tee fitting up to the tailpiece and waste pipe, and mark cutting lines on both pipes, where they will fit into the tee fitting. Now, cut the tailpiece and continuous waste pipe to length with a PVC tubing cutter or a hacksaw.
Reinstall the tailpiece and continuous waste pipe, along with the tee, leaving the connections hand-tight. Adjust the pieces as necessary, making sure the continuous waste arm has a slight downward pitch toward the tee fitting.
Tighten the slip nuts slightly more with channel-type pliers. These do not need to be overly tight the plastic threads can be damaged if you use too much force.
The Spruce / Kevin Norris
Apply Plumbers Putty To The Basket Strainer
Use your bare palm to roll a slender length of the plumbers putty and thread it all over the base of the strainer.
The rolled-up putty should have an equal diameter down its stretch to avoid one part of the strainer appearing more padded than others.
Plumbers putty is also available in retail hardware stores around you.
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Tighten The Drain Assembly
The rubber gasket on the bottom of your drain assembly is designed to be installed without the use of siliconecaulk or sealant but if you want a little extra leak-free insurance, now is the time to add a thin layer to the rubber washer prior to tightening the drain assembly up.
Make sure the drain cup of the assembly is sitting flat and positioned evenly in the sink hole. If your drain model comes with a pop-up pivot lever, make sure the lift rod hole is pointing to the back of the sink towards the location of the pop-up rod. Spin on the nut with your hands at first to avoid cross-threading. Then tighten the nut on the drain stem slowly with your pliers or wrench, rechecking that the drain is still squarely positioned in the sink.
Not Too Tight
Avoid over-tightening the nut as this could deform the rubber gasket and cause leaks. However, at the same time, make sure that the nut is tightened enough so that it is secure and does not let the drain assembly spin in the drain opening.
Install The Drain Stopper
If you have clicker, flip, or plug style drain, you can easily install this from the topside of the sink.
However, if you are installing a drain with a pop-up lever you will need to install the stopper from the drain opening before crawling under the sink to finish connecting the linkage. The hole for the pop-up linkage should be facing toward the back of the sink as you push the stopper down into the drain.
After you have ensured that the stopper is in its position, the pivot rod has to be inserted into the opening on the side of the tailpiece from the underside of the sink. A plastic washer is usually present on each side of the plastic ball. The tip of the pivot rode has to slid through the opening in the stopper linkage inside the drain assembly.
Once you have skewered the pivot rod through the bottom loop of the drain plug the pivot rod nut has to be screwed on the threaded fitting present on the side of the tailpiece to make sure that the ball remains secured to the tailpiece.
Dont tighten the pivot rod nut too tight. If you overtighten this nut the stopper will be too stiff to move up and down. Hand-tight is typically good enough. You can check for restrictions by gently pushing the pivot rod up and down. It should slide freely but also hold its position if you arent moving it.
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Sink Drain Almost Same Level As P
Raise the sink or lower the drain
This guy doesn’t beat around the bush.
Raise the house, keep the drain in the same place.
Stop making sense! This was supposed to be taken as a hard to answer question!
People always got two options
Poor planning. Might be able to use a shallower basket strainer, but that is really tight. Best practice to go ahead and open up the wall, find the tee and lower it.
not good. I guess the drain will have to be lowered
Go to HD and get that really cool slinky drain. Problem solved. Yeah just kidding. Gonna have to lower the T behind that wall probably. Or a shallow basket strainer combined with a shallower sink but it looks pretty dang close.
Connect The Drain Trap
The drain trap assembly includes a U-shaped trap bend and a J-shaped trap arm. The trap bend fits onto the bottom of the tailpiece tee fitting, while the trap arm extends into the drain outlet in the wall.
Assemble the trap bend and trap arm together loosely with a slip nut and washer. Slide a slip nut and washer onto the straight end of the trap arm. Push the trap bend up into the tee fitting on the tailpiece while sliding the trap arm into the drain outlet at the wall.
Adjust the trap pieces as needed to create the most direct path from the sink to the drain outlet. Make sure the trap arm has a slight downward angle toward the drain outlet.
Confirm that the continuous waste pipe and the trap arm slope slightly downward in the direction of the water flow, then check all of the drain connections to make sure they are tight.
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Cut A Sink Opening With A Jigsaw
Lower a jigsaw blade into a front hole and saw along the cut line to back hole. Repeat on the other side.
Lay a scrap of wood a few inches longer than the cutout across the sink area. Screw through the scrap and into the cutout waste to prevent it from falling or binding the saw blade.
Cut along the front and back cut lines. Remove the cut-out piece.
Check the fit of the sink in countertop trim the hole with the jigsaw, if necessary.
Set the sink upside down on a padded sawhorse or counter.
Feed the faucet’s supply tubing and tailpiece through the gasket that seals the faucet to the sink and then up through the hole in sink.
Screw the mounting nuts and washers to the underside of the sink deck.
Make sure the faucet can swing in a full arc across the sink before tightening mounting nuts.
Reassemble The Drain Trap
Finish the job by reconnecting the P-trap to the drain pipe and drain tailpiece. Check for leaks by closing the stopper, filling up the sink, then opening the stopper and letting the water drain out while you look for leaks from below. Connections that leak can be slightly tightened with channel-type pliers, but take care not to over-tighten them.
The Spruce / Kevin Norris
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Connect All Of Your Plumbing Pipes To The Newly Installed Drain
Turn on the water supply, check for leaks, and then enjoy. After everything has been connected, turn on the water supply at your main shutoff valve, and check for any leaks. If you find any leaks after doing this, shut off the water supply and tighten your new sink drain a little bit more to stop the leak.
After everything is checked and tightened, turn on your water supply at the main shutoff valve again and enjoy your newly installed sink drain.
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How To Install A Bathroom Pop
Step 1 Roll plumbers putty between your hands to form a piece about the size of a gummy worm. Place the rolled putty around the underside of the sink flange. NOTE Some drain kits come with a flange washer as this one did. In this case, you would not use plumbers putty.
Place the flange in the sink hole. Press firmly into place.
Step 2 If not already done for you, assemble the pop-up body by placing the locking nut and flat washer over the threads of the pop-up. Slide the rubber gasket on last. The gaskets tapered end should face up.Step 3 Screw the pop-up body to the flange through the hole from the underside of the sink. Make sure the pivot rod opening faces the back of the sink.Step 4 Hand tighten the locking nut on the pop-up body until the gasket fits snug against the underside of the sink. Using the channel lock pliers, tighten two to three additional rotations. Do not overtighten. Wipe away the excess putty around the flange as needed.
Step 5 Drop the pop-up stopper down into the drain opening. Make sure the hole for the pivot rod is facing the rear of the sink.
Step 6 Insert the lift rod through the top of the sink faucet.
Step 7 Attach the extension strap to the lift rod from underneath the sink.
Step 8 Wrap thread tape around the threads of the tailpiece and screw the tailpiece to the pop-up body. .
Then, slide the extension over the tailpiece and tighten the nut.
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Do You Need Plumbers Putty To Install A Sink Drain
A plumbers putty is useful for sealing the top part of the drain assembly against the drain opening of the basin. While it plays an important role in plumbing, it may not work for all types of sinks.
If your sink type does not support a plumbers putty or you dont have one, silicone caulk and rubber gasket are good alternatives. Keep in mind that silicone tends to crack over time.
Apply Plumbing Putty Around The Drain
Next, it’s time to insert the new drain into the sink’s hole. You’ll want to put the drain piece into the hole, making sure that the flange is securely placed into the plumber’s putty. If you are using a kit assembly, follow all instructions to ensure you get a good fit with a nice, secure seal around the drain. This will ensure that you don’t run into future leaks.
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How To Replace A Bathroom Faucet With Your New Sink Drain
Many people install a new sink drain while replacing the faucet. This is a great idea, especially if your new faucet is a different color or type of metal than the drain in your sink. Ensuring a matching faucet and drain will keep the bathroom fixtures consistent and cohesive.
Whether you’re fixing a drain or installing a new drain in a sink, the fixtures should match. It gives the sink a clean look and allows you to check for any water damage in the cabinets and detect other problems you may need to address with your bathroom update.
Most sink faucet installation kits are simple to follow with easy, clear instructions. If youre wondering how to get started, check out the DIY faucet replacement video below.
If youre looking for a beautiful faucet to match your new bathroom sink drain, dont miss our wide range of bathroom faucets and fixtures. At Do It Best, we have everything you need to create a beautiful bathroom update that youll feel proud of.
While do-it-yourself projects can be fun and fulfilling, there is always a potential for personal injury or property damage. We strongly suggest that any project beyond your abilities be left to licensed professionals such as electricians, plumbers, and carpenters. Any action you take upon the information on this website is strictly at your own risk, and we assume no responsibility or liability for the contents of this article.
In This Article
Remove The Locknut And Coupling Nuts
The locknut is the piece of pipe that attaches to the sink. The coupling nut holds the drainpipe in place. Use slip-joint pliers to loosen the locknut. Once you have removed the locknut it is time to remove the large coupling nuts from the basket strainer. Use a plier, or an adjustable wrench to accomplish the task.
You can also use a hammer or chisel if a wrench isnt available. Ask for help with the basket strainer to ensure it doesnt spin when you remove the locknut. You will now have full access to the sink basket strainer.
Remember that sometimes the locknut can get stuck and wont move even when you use a spud wrench. You might have to remove the nut. You can cut the locknut to reach the cardboard friction ring. While youre doing this, ensure that you dont cut the sink. Also, wear safety glasses.
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